Wax Jewelry

The Art of Fine Jewellery Design

Eventually jewellery changed in function from being an aid in holding clothes together to being worn for aesthetic reasons. Jewellery also began to gather symbolic meaning and was used to ward off evil spirits, bad luck and keep the wearer healthy.

Jewellery also became a status symbol, indicating power and wealth. In fact, it has been discovered that humans have had the ability to use symbolism since the Stone Age, approximately 100,000 years ago. Previously it was thought that humans only developed this ability 35,000 to 40,000 years ago.

Egyptian Jewellery

The art of jewellery design is considered to have originated in Egypt. The use of copper in jewellery creation (metallurgy) occurred at around 5,000 B.C. which is also the period in which the Egyptians began to Fashion Jewellery from gold, which was relatively soft and easy to craft but strong enough to withstand wear and tear.

The Egyptians believed heavily in symbolism and mysticism. Jewellery was not only worn for this purpose of showing a person's status in life, but also in death to assist with the transition into the afterlife.

Typical jewellery designs from this period use gold fashioned into shapes such as eagles and scarab beetles. Gemstones were not used by the Egyptians as they favoured glass, shaped to appear a specific colour as 'mock' gemstones.

Ancient Roman Jewellery

Jewellery was a prominent part of everyday life in the Second Millennium BC, the Ancient Roman period. The Romans had easier access to natural resources and materials which they used to create bracelets, rings, Necklaces and brooches.

A special pin known as a "fibula" was used to fasten clothing together as garments were pinned and not sewn during the Roman period. Rings were decorated with carved gemstones which could be pressed against wax over the seal of important documents to ensure that they were only opened by the correct person.

Hellenistic Jewellery

The Hellenistic Age was from 330-27BC and despite only lasting 303 years, there were extreme changes in styles of clothing, architecture and jewellery during this period. This was because of greater contact with the Far East and Egypt.

Semi-precious stones such as chalcedony, cornelian, garnet, amethyst and quartz crystals became widely used in jewellery during this period.

Renaissance Jewellery

The 17th Century marked the beginning of the Renaissance when jewellery became far more decorative in purpose. Wealth was fashionable and living a life of indulgence and luxury was admired. The Renaissance Period followed the Middle Ages, a time of depression, unrest, illness and misery and fearing that a decline into another dark age was possible; people invested their money into extraordinary jewellery to concentrate wealth.

Pearls and precious stones like emeralds, rubies and sapphires were used to adorn women. Jewellery also included diamonds, which had been discovered in India in the 1300's.

Royalty were key players in the establishment of exotic jewellery as a fashion. Henry the VIII lived from 1491 to 1547 and definitely lived a life of excess. He owned over 234 rings and 324 brooches when he died. Maximillian I married Mary of Burgundy in 1477 and set the fashion and tradition of diamond Engagement Rings.

Victorian Jewellery

The reign of Queen Victoria was also a significant time in the history of jewellery. Social norms changed once again to a "Romantic Period" where women were required to portray themselves as pure and subservient. Celtic fashions became popular during this time because Queen Victoria and Prince Albert purchased Balmoral Castle in Scotland. This led to polished agate jewellery known as "Scottish Pebbles" becoming fashionable.

When Prince Albert died in 1860, the nation went into mourning. This sombre period lasted until the mid-1880s and saw darker stones such as black onyx used in jewellery design. Pendants and brooches with carvings of agate, conch shell and ceramics were also popular and depicted mythological images. Diamonds were discovered in Kimberley, South Africa during the late Victorian period and were used in jewellery far more frequently due to their abundance.

Contemporary Jewellery Design

Contemporary jewellery design has become a skill which requires study and qualifications. Stones and metals are graded and certified to show authenticity and quality. Bespoke jewellery is a very popular choice for important occasions such as engagements, weddings and anniversaries as the jewellery is custom made, according to the stipulations of the buyer.

Bespoke jewellery allows for the combination of personal sentiment with professional expertise. Materials like white gold, platinum and tanzanite (a rare gemstone found in Tanzania in the 1960's) as well as diamonds are very popular. Many different styles are incorporated into modern jewellery design from all cultures and influences. What is most notable is the emphasis on personal sense of style and individuality, especially with bespoke jewellery.

About the Author

Petra Jewellery Design is run by Petra Bierberg, a professional jewellery designer and trained goldsmith located in Cape Town, South Africa, who specialises in bespoke gold and platinum jewellery design.

Jewellery Casting Machine, Gold Tree, Silver tree, Wax, rubber Mould Cutting, Gold casting training, gold casting process

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